A Journey Through the Texas Rainforest: Caddo Lake State Park
As I approached Caddo Lake State Park, the world around me transformed. The familiar dryness of the hill country, parched from nearly 100 rainless days, was replaced by a landscape saturated with moisture. The air hung heavy, thick with the earthy scent of wetlands, and the fall-colored leaves painted the scenery with vivid reds and oranges. It felt like stepping into another realm—a swamp-like sanctuary far removed from the Texas I thought I knew.
Caddo Lake State Park, November 2024.
The visitor center was my first stop, a place where history and nature intertwined. While I had known beforehand that Caddo Lake is Texas’s last remaining naturally formed lake, I was unaware of its international significance. With its extraordinary biodiversity—home to over 200 species of birds, 55 mammals, and countless plants—it has earned its designation as a "Wetland of International Importance" under the Ramsar Preservation Convention. This designation, meant to protect wetlands globally, felt bittersweet as I reflected on how humans continue to alter these fragile ecosystems.
The area's history was equally compelling. Before Colonial settlers arrived in the 1600s, the land was home to the Caddo Indians, whose rich culture once thrived across the region. Including at least 25 bands who spoke similar languages and ranged across Arkansas, Texas, Louisiana, Missouri, and Oklahoma, the Kadohadacho Caddos were known to be one of the largest groups within the Caddo Confederacy and gave the modern nation its name. I was fascinated by the story of Sha'chahdínnih (Timber Hill), the last known village of the Caddo people in this area before their forced relocation to Oklahoma. Standing in a place where people lived, hunted, and gathered for over ten thousand years, I couldn’t help but imagine the lives they led among these wetlands, forests, and floodplains.
After soaking in the history, it was time for the adventure I had been anticipating: hiking through the park's trails. Land access here is limited due to the vast wetlands, but the drive through the park offered glimpses of the towering bald cypress trees draped in Spanish moss—a prelude to the wonders that awaited me.
One-way road in Caddo Lake State Park.
I pitched my go-to two-person Big Anges tent at the Saw Mill Campground. The Tiger Wall UL2 is ideal for backpacking, working with limited space, and solo traveling.
Easy 3-season tent setup by Big Anges.
Mill Pond Campground. 10/10 recommend. November 2024.
Once I settled in this tranquil spot beside Saw Mill Pond, I headed straight to the pier for a view that immediately justified my decision to visit during peak fall. The calm, overcast skies cast an eerie mood over the water, perfect for capturing the vibrant yet haunting beauty of the cypress trees. The conditions were ideal for some landscape photography: not too bright, minimal wind, and dry.
I could only take a few shots—I was itching to start hiking.
The trails at Caddo Lake State Park are relatively short, just 2.5 miles in total, but they pack in an incredible variety of sights. Starting from my campsite, I took the CCC Cut-Through Trail (.2 mile) and merged it onto Pine Ridge Loop (.7 mile). A short-lived storm greeted me and added a magical touch—raindrops glistening on moss and ferns, mushrooms thriving in the dampness, and the earthy scent of wet leaves. For a moment, I felt as though I had wandered into FernGully, marveling at the richness of a rainforest—in Texas, no less!
While I didn’t properly prepare to keep myself dry, I was thankful to have packed protective wear for my camera gear. My WANDRD PRVKE Photography Travel Backpack and Photography Bundle has been my go-to camera bag for everyday use and travel. The daypack has noticeable water resistance and removable cubes to keep all my gear dry and organized, allowing me to wander more and worry less while exploring the outdoors.
For quick access to my camera, I utilized the Capture Camera Clip V3 from Peak Design on the strap of my WANDRD PRVKE backpack and kept it covered by the ProMaster Rain Jacket.
Fully protected gear from the elements. November 2024.
Texas often surprises outsiders who think of it as flat and arid. But the area surrounding Caddo Lake, with its lush bottomland hardwood forests and upland pines, defies stereotypes. My hike extended through Pine Ridge Spur (.2 mile) and connected me to Caddo Forest Trail (.8 mile), where pine and oak trees canopied the trail full of fallen leaves. Caddo Forest Trail was full of informative markers that told stories of the park's ecological and historical treasures. I paused throughout the trail to appreciate the native Giant Cane and Texas Maples, and the Civilian Conservation Corps Pavilion built in the 1930s. The tireless efforts of the CCC during the Great Depression, whose work made these trails possible, changed the way Americans explore the natural world throughout the United States.
The storm’s aftermath lingered as a mist settled over the forest, casting a dreamlike quality on the final stretch of my hike. What should have been a quick 2.5-mile trek turned into a four-hour exploration as I lost myself in the beauty of this "Texas rainforest."
By the time I emerged, I was ravenous and knew exactly where I wanted to go: Big Pines Lodge, a Cajun restaurant just five miles from the park. I had read about its legendary fried alligator and hush puppies while planning my trip, though I wasn’t so lucky to find the gator in stock that day. Instead, I indulged in perfectly fried catfish and Southern fixings that hit the spot.
Helena, my server, made the experience even more memorable. Her warmth reminded me of the kindness strangers can offer when you're traveling solo. She even gifted me a hand-crafted magnet—a keepsake to remind me of her spirit and the slow, serene pace of life in this corner of Texas.
Keepsake I received from my server at Big Pines Lodge. November 2024.
If you're going to grab a meal at Big Pines Lodge, there are a few things you should know:
1. They are only open on weekends (so plan accordingly).
2. Staff is limited, so pack your patience. Life moves a little slower (in the best way possible), so remember to go with the flow.
3. The restaurant only serves what's in stock, and stock is limited.
As night fell, I returned to my campsite and settled by the campfire. The ban on burning had been lifted just in time for my visit, and the comforting warmth drew not just me but a couple of armadillos and the occasional creepy crawler. I couldn’t blame them; the fire was irresistible. I cracked open my copy of Braiding Sweetgrass and felt an overwhelming sense of gratitude for the connection I had found here—to the land, the history, and the rhythm of nature.
The crackling fire, the rustling leaves, and the chorus of distant frogs reminded me that while I had hiked alone, I was far from lonely. Caddo Lake had wrapped me in its vibrant embrace, teeming with life. It was a place where the past, present, and future seemed to coexist, and I felt privileged to be part of its story, even if only briefly.
With day one drawing to a close, I looked forward to the adventures still ahead—this time, exploring the lake itself. Caddo Lake State Park had already left an indelible mark on me, and I couldn’t wait to see what magic the water would hold.
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