I Found My Spirit at the Boquillas Canyon
After a couple of big hikes across the vast lands of Big Bend National Park, Katie and I opted to take things slow at the Boquillas Canyon. We were basking underneath the desert sun where temperatures were at the most extreme. Ready to head to the U.S.-Mexico border, we felt completely alone among bare roads. My research before our trip had me prepared for the possibility of complete isolation as we would adventure along the Rio Grande River. This idea of remote travel encouraged me to only bring my film camera—a Minolta XT-si—with a roll of the classic Kodak 35mm color film. Film has an interesting way of forcing me to pause, sometimes longer than using a DSLR or mirrorless camera—just what I intended.
My family’s history of coming to America is complex. My maternal grandfather’s ancestry stems far back to Spain before spending a few generations in Mexico, eventually, my Abuelo crossed the river with my Abuela into South Texas. Despite my maternal grandmother joining her husband in the U.S., she was originally born in South Texas with deep Native roots—Aztec blood. Still, she only knew life in Mexico before crossing back into the United States. My biological father is from Colombia, giving me second-generation status on his side. Technicalities are irrelevant here, rather the context of my intention is necessary for this story to make sense. Many families have similar stories of emigration, most are descendants of immigration into the U.S., but all with complicated pasts. Whatever the stories might possess, I felt a connection to this region, and I wanted to leave all other attachments behind me.
I was reluctant to bring my phone, but emergencies can happen, right? We laughed as we approached the massive canyon with each mile depleting our contact with the world and signal quickly fading. With so much time on our hands, we opted to stop at overlooks. Some might argue there isn’t much of a landscape “view,” but the emptiness surrounding us possesses a unique beauty. We were intrigued by the history on which we were standing. Driving through what used to be a vast ocean, dominated by aquatic dinosaurs, we imagined how lush everything once was. How crazy to think this place yearns for water every day of its existence. This reiteration of isolation and depletion became the theme of my photographs throughout this trip, starting with the open road.
This tunnel is worth the stop and is often the subject of many travelers with the Boquillas Canyon is a grand background. Given my lack of focal depth, I went a little lower to the ground of this shot. I’m happy I did.
There are various roads that stem off this 30-mile desert road from the Chisos Basin, but we opted to spend our evening exploring the canyon. Next time, I’ll be sure to make a few stops at the trails along the way. Shortly after the tunnel, we had the option to either head toward the Rio Grande Village or to the canyon itself. Not only were we more interested in walking through the canyon, but our evening arrival prevented us from entering the village. The hike toward the canyon is short and easy, but we took our time as the details surrounding us were unquestionably beautiful. Promptly after beginning our hike, we found ourselves soaking in the wonders of the Rio Grande atop a short and bare cliff. It is amazing to see how much life is grounded in water.
The Rio Grande River was low and hot! Even under the scorching sun, there was no sign of reprieve in the Chihuahuan Desert.
I was in awe of the amount of life thriving in this area. To think what this narrow river has seen over centuries of migrations, waves of species calling the surrounding lands home, and the struggles of survival. The young fawn basking in the sun next to its mother didn’t seem to know or care about anything outside this space and time. We continued our walk down into the canyon, but we weren’t alone. Donkeys and cows warned us of their presence with cattle bells, concerned only with nearby vegetation. It was a peaceful journey. Looking back on these images, I am grateful to have preserved the authenticity of these views through film. I could have leaned toward a more vintage edit (which tends to happen often throughout my process), but the essence of these two photos captured on film encouraged me to preserve them in their natural state. I love the way the film encapsulates the desert, especially this place.
Just passed a canopy of tall grasses and brush, we were welcomed by what is known to be the deepest and longest canyon throughout Big Bend National Park— the Boquillas Canyon. Grand, marvelous, emotional—I couldn’t believe I was in the presence of something so beautiful.
We were on the cusp of a scorching summer. The park was already experiencing its first phase of drought so we remained vigilant in hydrating at every opportunity—but this day was particularly hot for us both. While we had enough water supply for a short hike, we often wished we had something cool to rest on our skin. Approaching the Rio Grande, we naively suspected the river to provide relief. We knew this, yet the provider of life deceived us anyway. It was the warmest water I’ve ever laid in. Nonetheless, I’m glad I soaked in the river. Only a couple of generations before me did my family take the risk of crossing this very river for a better life and opportunities in the U.S. I had an emotional moment as I remained there in peace. Naturally, my curiosity led me across the river and into Mexico. So much blood spilled from battles over claimed territories, yet I stood there in silence.
The image on the left was taken just as we entered the shallow river, and the image on the right is just around the first bend (still shallow) where I am standing in Mexico. The second image is available for purchase here. Although the trailhead ends at the river, some foot trails allow onlookers to continue for just another mile. At this point, the land becomes inaccessible on foot. We did not take kayaks, nor were we prepared for anything more than what we planned. I have now added this 2-3 day river trip to my itinerary for another trip to Big Bend National Park.
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