Stephanie Saldivar

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A Day of Wild Heights and Unforgettable Views in the Grand Tetons

After two full days of exploring the geysers, wildlife, and rugged landscapes of Yellowstone National Park, my heart was warmed with awe and my mind filled with knowledge. Yellowstone felt like a living lesson in Earth's ancient history. Every moment carried me deeper into nature’s story, and I was hungry for what the next adventure held. As I left its boundaries, I couldn't shake the immense gratitude I felt for the park’s wild beauty, its scale, and the memories now tied to it. With my travel partners by my side, we were off to explore the wild splendor of Grand Teton National Park.

Grand Teton National Park is a rugged wilderness, spanning roughly 310,000 acres, dwarfed compared to Yellowstone’s 2.2 million acres, but packed with towering mountains and pristine valleys that make it equally captivating. The bulk of the park is accessible via Teton Park Road, the main artery that runs north-south through the park, offering views that are second to none. This road would be our guide for the day.

At first light, we broke camp at Headwaters Campground, our temporary home that had now started to feel familiar after a few nights beneath the stars. The drive from Flagg Ranch to Grand Tetons was a short 10 minutes as we entered the park from the north, but not before taking a photo in front of the sign. It’s become a tradition, as it is for most people who visit the nation’s parks, and I love it!

Our first stop, Jackson Lake, quickly became a place where we made multiple pauses. The grandeur of this lake with the towering Teton Range reflecting off its waters was impossible to ignore. The tranquility was interrupted only by the ripples of the lake, and the soft hum of birds flying over. The stillness of the scene was perfect for  landscape photography, so naturally, I took my time capturing the serene beauty. Each stop around this breathtaking body of water gave us a deeper appreciation for the magnitude of the Tetons and the untamed beauty they represented.

Jackson Lake 2023.

As we continued along Teton Park Road, our next stop was Upper Willow Flats. This area is known for its scenic vistas and the wildlife that sometimes frequents it. I could easily see why this area earned its name; the sweeping fields of willows stretched as far as I could see, framed by the distant mountains. The abundance of willows that dominate the landscape makes it an important habitat for moose and other wildlife. Though we didn’t catch sight of any large animals, the area’s quiet solitude was deeply calming. The flats likely formed over millennia as sediment deposited by the Snake River created this fertile and flat space. During our stop, we encountered a wildlife educator who had set up an outdoor exhibit. Seeing taxidermied bear fur and claws while hearing jaw-dropping facts about the bears that inhabit the area was a surreal experience. I had never encountered bears before, and learning how to be bear-aware added to my appreciation for the wildness of this park.

Upper Willow Flats 2023.

The drive down the scenic road felt like a journey into a dream, especially as we continued to absorb insights from the GuideAlong app, which highlighted not only the park’s wildlife but also its fascinating geography. The Tetons themselves are unlike other mountain ranges. The range soars straight up from the valley floor without foothills, creating a dramatic visual. The valley we traveled through was carved by glaciers and the movement of the Earth’s tectonic plates millions of years ago. Seeing these formations before us, we couldn’t help but marvel at the forces that shaped this landscape. Every stop we made was a chance to bask in the summer sun and immerse ourselves in this ancient world.

The road called us to stop and explore a trail close to the truck. With the sun glistening over the Teton Range, I felt drawn to capture the mountains from a new perspective. Dropping to the ground, I wanted to see the Tetons from the angle where Earth meets the sky.

The scene from down low was humbling—the mountains towering above me felt even more massive, their jagged peaks slicing into the bright blue heavens. As I framed the shot, I noticed something incredible: a glacier resting within the shadows of the peak. I switched from my versatile 24-70mm lens to my 100-400mm telephoto lens, zooming in to reveal the intricate details I otherwise might have missed. The glacier, nestled in the craggy ridges, looked like a hidden sculpture with stark white against the dark stone, preserving the Teton’s ancient history within its icy grip.

The glaciers atop the Grand Tetons are among the last remaining in the American Rockies. These ancient ice formations have been slowly retreating due to climate change, yet they still cling to the high peaks of the Tetons, sculpting the landscape with each passing season. I learned there are around 11 named glaciers left in the Teton Range, with the most famous being Teton Glacier on the east face of Grand Teton—I wonder if this is the glacier I was blessed to capture. These glaciers have been present for thousands of years, carving deep into the mountains and contributing to the dramatic topography of the range. My experience was a reminder of the fleeting nature of time. Though they still exist, they slowly disappear, eroding like memories lost to the wind. Yet, at this moment, they stood as sentinels of the past, a reminder of the forces that shaped this land and the slow, inevitable change that continues. The experience of witnessing them up close, even through the lens of my camera, filled me with awe and reverence.

There was something otherworldly about seeing the glacier from this distance. Even though I was only a visitor to this immense landscape, it felt like I was experiencing something eternal, something untouched. I shared the view with my friends, inviting them to peek through my camera's live view, and we were all struck by the harsh beauty of this icy relic. It was a powerful feeling, knowing that I had captured the towering peaks and the delicate layers of history resting within them. The glaciers, like the Tetons themselves, were timeless, standing as a testament to the raw beauty of nature and the stories it holds.

Our stop to view Mount Moran provided another layer of wonder. The imposing mountain, formed from metamorphic gneiss, was a geological masterpiece. This gneiss, which is over 2.7 billion years old, had been cut by dikes of igneous granite and diabase, topped with sandstone and glaciers. I zoomed in with my 100-400mm telephoto lens, capturing details of the vertical “Black Dike,” a striking feature that bisects the mountain face. Through my lens, I could see the rugged textures of the stone, and the glaciers flanking the peaks only added to the grandeur. It was a surreal moment–capturing those layers of geological time in a photograph was like freezing a small piece of Earth's powerful story. 

As suggested by our virtual tour guide, we attempted to stop at Jenny Lake, but by the time we arrived, the crowds had already settled in. The GuideAlong app also informed us that we would’ve needed to arrive much earlier to secure a spot. Undeterred, we stumbled across the Jenny Lake Scenic Drive that skirts the east short of the lake. Unlike the backcountry road that stretched the Blacktail Plateau in Yellowstone, this short loop was paved and shared with a busy bike lane. We ended up using one of the pull offs to enjoy a quiet overlook of the lake, with the Tetons reflecting off its surface. Even from afar, the scene was worth the pause as we endured a much-needed rest from the drive. The park may have been busy at the main stops, but the road remained our own, giving us a sense of freedom, as though we were exploring this wilderness on our terms.

Jenny Lake 2023.

Not long after, we took a detour to Moose-Wilson Road to explore more of the park. This scenic byway led us to another highlight of the park, the Laurence S. Rockefeller Preserve. Unfortunately, its popularity made entry impossible without a long wait. We learned that arriving before 9 a.m. is the only way to avoid the lines, so we made a pact to wake up before dawn the next day to secure our chance for entry. The significance of the preserve lies in its deep connection to the Rockefeller family, who gifted much of the land for conservation. The trails were said to be incredibly peaceful, leading through meadows and forests–we looked forward to our next adventure.

Jackson Hole Mountain Resort was on the list from a recommendation that came to one of my travel partners from a local. Though better known as a ski destination, the area was bustling with visitors participating in various outdoor activities. We took the aerial tram, known as the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram, up to the summit of Rendezvous Mountain at 10,450 feet. As we meandered at the top of the mountain, light rain quickly turned into hail, giving us an extreme reminder of just how high we were. The view from the top was unlike anything I’d ever seen, offering a thrill that was both terrifying and exhilarating. Looking down from this height was an unworldly experience. We took the next tram going down and excitedly hopped on the next available tram to the neighboring mountain. 

The ride itself was thrilling, with sweeping views of the Teton Range unfolding as we rose higher. The tram ride itself was an experience–its size can occupy 100 people and take less than ten minutes to reach the top. At the summit, Corbet’s Cabin awaited us, famous for its waffles. We passed on waiting for waffles, but we couldn’t resist sipping cold beers to celebrate our journey together.

After a brief return to ground level, we took another ride up the Bridger Gondola to the summit at 9,095 feet. The ascent treated us to beds of Wyoming wildflowers cascading down the Wildflower Trail. The colors were mesmerizing, and at the top, we remained at a standstill, mesmerized by the storm rolling over the Teton Range. Lightning cracked in the distance, and as the rain poured down, we stayed put, feeling both awestruck and humbled by nature’s power.

Our final stop of the day brought us to the Snake River Overlook, an iconic scene immortalized by Ansel Adams in his legendary photograph, "A River Runs Through It." The overlook offered a sweeping view of the Snake River winding beneath the Grand Teton Range, a breathtaking sight that I had longed to see with my own eyes. As a photographer, it felt like a pilgrimage—to stand where Adams once stood, his camera pointed at this very river, capturing a timeless image that has inspired countless others.

I set up my camera, eager to recapture that famed black-and-white image with my own style, but as I looked through the viewfinder, I realized the conditions weren't quite what I had hoped. The sun was beginning to set, casting a harsh light across the sky. Its bright reflection on the distant haze nearly obscured the mountain range, draping the Tetons in a soft, fading glow. The details of the scene, so crisp in Adams' image, were muted by the thick summer air.

Still, I did my best. I dialed back the exposure, hoping to cut through the light and restore some of the contrast between the mountains and the sky. The river below glistened as it snaked through the trees, and I took a deep breath, thinking of how this very river has flowed through centuries of change, yet remains constant. In some ways, I thought, perhaps the haze and light were part of this moment’s story—a reminder that nature is never static, always shifting, evolving, much like photography itself. Though I knew my image wouldn’t match the crisp sharpness of Adams’ masterpiece, I felt a sense of fulfillment. The Snake River was right in front of me, its path meandering as it always had, with the Tetons towering in the distance, even if they were softened by the day’s end. There was a peacefulness in that imperfection. As I packed up my gear, I realized that capturing the moment for what it was—not what I imagined it to be—was what mattered most. This was my experience, my chapter in the long, storied history of photographers drawn to this place. And even if my image didn't mirror Adams', I was part of something larger, connected to the past and the spirit of this remarkable landscape.

Tetons and Snake River 2023.

Though we had hoped to spot some wildlife, we didn’t linger long enough at any one location to catch a glimpse. Still, the day had been full of breathtaking views, learning experiences, and plenty of excitement as I pushed my limits, both as a landscape photographer and a nature enthusiast. The adventure continued to evolve as we enjoyed our campfire, dinner, and the luxurious shower stalls on the campgrounds. We reflected on our adventure full of thrill-seeking and laughter while finding ways to learn more about each other. As I lay in my tent that night, I couldn’t help but feel an overwhelming sense of gratitude for the journey I was on with my dear friends. Before turning out the lantern for the night, I couldn’t help but read the book I snagged at the Yellowstone bookstore, The Female Alpha Wolf, and my friends were just as eager to learn from what I had read so far, feeling more connected to this wilderness. We still had more of the Grand Teton to explore, and we were eager to continue our adventure.